We check and repair air conditioning systems at our workshop in Lasnamäe: we test the system for leaks and find the cause of the fault, whether it is in the compressor, condenser, evaporator, valve, pressure sensor or fan. We agree the cost of the repair with you before any work begins.
Priisle tee 18, Tallinn
Mon–Fri: 09:00–18:00
Cars and minibuses of all makes
What we check in your car’s air conditioning
Air conditioning is a sealed circuit: the compressor, condenser, evaporator, valves and pipes, plus the sensors and electrics that control them. Poor cooling can come from any of these parts, so we find the cause first.
Leaks
If refrigerant is escaping, we test the system for leaks: connections, seals, pipes, hoses and the components of the circuit.
Compressor
The compressor pressurises the refrigerant and pumps it around the circuit. We check whether it engages and whether it makes any unusual noise, and find the cause of the fault.
Condenser and fan
The condenser sits in front of the radiator and takes damage from stones, dirt and corrosion. We check its condition and the fan that cools it.
Evaporator and valve
The evaporator cools the air in the cabin, and the expansion valve meters the flow of refrigerant. If there is no cold air, we check these too.
Dryer, pipes, seals
The receiver-dryer traps moisture in the circuit, while the pipes, hoses and seals keep the system sealed. We check them for corrosion and damage.
Pressure sensor and electrics
If the compressor or fan will not switch on, we check the pressure sensor, fuses, relays and wiring. For other electrical faults, see car electrical repair.
Signs of a faulty air conditioner
Book a check if you notice any of the signs below. The sooner a small leak or worn part is found, the fewer components have time to be damaged.
Warm air from the vents. The air conditioning is on, but it does not cool at all.
Weak or intermittent cooling. It only cools while driving, or the cold air keeps turning warm.
The compressor does not engage. When you press the A/C button, there is no click from the clutch and the engine speed does not change.
Noise or knocking when it is switched on. Humming, whistling or grinding from the compressor that stops when you switch the air conditioning off.
An unpleasant smell from the vents. A musty, damp smell, especially in the first few minutes after switching on.
Water on the floor mat inside the car. Condensation from the evaporator is not draining outside — the drain may be blocked.
Oily marks on pipes or connections. Oil escapes from the circuit together with the refrigerant, so the leak point often looks oily.
Weak airflow. The fan is running, but little air comes out of the vents — a clogged cabin filter is a common cause.
How an air conditioning repair works
First we find out exactly what is wrong, then we check the system and find the cause, and only then do we agree the repair with you.
Symptoms
We ask how long the air conditioning has been working poorly, in what conditions the problem appears, and whether the front of the car has been repaired or hit.
System check
We check the system pressure, the operation of the compressor and fan, and their electrical circuits.
Finding the cause
We locate the leak or the faulty component and explain what we found and what repair is needed.
Estimate and repair
We agree the list of work and the cost with you, then carry out the repair. If the circuit has to be opened, we remove the refrigerant first and refill the system to the manufacturer’s specification afterwards.
Why simply topping up the air conditioning is not enough
The air conditioning circuit is sealed, and the refrigerant in it is not used up. If the cooling has got weaker, refrigerant is escaping through a leak, and with it the oil that lubricates the compressor. When the pressure drops too low, the pressure sensor stops the compressor from switching on.
If the system is topped up without a check, the refrigerant will leak out again over time, and the compressor will run short of lubrication. That is why the system is tested for leaks before it is refilled. Common leak points:
- O-rings in the pipe connections;
- pipes and hoses — from corrosion, rubbing against nearby parts and vibration;
- the condenser — from stones, dirt and corrosion;
- the compressor shaft seal;
- the evaporator under the dashboard;
- the service valves of the circuit.
When to turn off the air conditioning
Switch the air conditioning off and book a check if:
- you hear knocking, grinding or a loud hum from the compressor when the air conditioning is on;
- there is a burning smell or smoke from under the bonnet or from the vents;
- the engine temperature rises while the air conditioning is running.
Without the air conditioning, the engine runs as usual and you can keep driving. But on many cars the compressor is driven by the shared accessory belt, so a seized pulley or compressor can damage the belt. If the noise continues even after you switch the air conditioning off, do not put off your visit.
How to make your air conditioning last longer
Most failures start with small things: dried-out seals, dirt on the condenser or moisture in the evaporator. A few habits help prevent them:
- run the air conditioning regularly, including in the cold season — the oil lubricates the seals and the compressor; at around zero degrees and below, the compressor on many cars will not switch on, so it is easier to do this on a warm day or in a heated garage;
- wash the condenser in front of the radiator gently, without strong pressure — its thin fins bend easily;
- switch off the air conditioning a few minutes before the end of your journey and leave the fan on — the evaporator will dry out and there will be less smell;
- replace the cabin filter at the intervals set by the vehicle manufacturer;
- do not use air conditioning leak sealants — they can clog the valves and other parts of the circuit.
If the air conditioning has started to cool less well, do not wait for it to fail completely: describe the signs in the “Message” field of the booking form or tell us over the phone.
Frequently asked questions about car air conditioning repair
How much does an air conditioning repair cost?
It depends on the fault: how long it takes to find the cause, which parts need replacing and whether the system needs refilling after the repair. Work is charged at an hourly rate; current prices are on the Prices page. We agree the cost of the repair with you before any work begins.
Why is my air conditioning blowing warm air?
Most often because of a refrigerant leak: when the pressure is low, the compressor does not switch on. Other causes include a faulty clutch or the compressor itself, the pressure sensor, a relay, a fuse or the climate control. A check of the system will show the exact cause.
Can I just have the air conditioning recharged?
Yes, if the system is in good order and sealed, and the cooling has only got slightly weaker — see our air conditioning recharge page for details. If the refrigerant escaped quickly or the air conditioning does not cool at all, the leak has to be found and fixed first.
Why won’t the air conditioning switch on in winter?
This is usually normal: at around zero degrees and below, the compressor on many cars does not switch on, to protect itself. If the air conditioning does not work in warm weather either, book a check.
What causes an unpleasant smell from the vents?
After the air conditioning has been running, the evaporator stays damp, and microorganisms build up on it over time. A clogged cabin filter and a blocked evaporator drain make the smell worse. If the smell does not go away, book a check.
How do I book an air conditioning repair?
Fill in the form on this page or call +372 5552 7985. Give your registration number or VIN, and describe how the air conditioning is working and when the problem started.
Book an air conditioning repair
Fill in the short form below — we will find a time that suits you.
Arrange a service visit today
Enter your vehicle details and a convenient time — we will contact you and confirm your booking.